Saturday, December 31, 2016

Final Mod for 2016! Modernizing the Front Lights (Part 1)

So as I couldn't have my last post for 2016 lead with a photo of a GM product, I decided to close out the year with one last post with a legitimate parts mod for my car.  Normally, I would try to post this onto Speedhunters first, but given my inability to handle a camera properly, plus given the subject of this post, I was sure there would be lots of people pointing out the inaccuracies behind my understanding of automotive lighting, so I decided this blog would be the better forum. Oh, and having this post be the first of a two part series doesn't exactly help either, especially when I currently have no idea how it's going to look when all done!
This is the photo from the Speedhunters post that got me thinking about an upgrade
Anyway - several years ago, I jumped on the LED bandwagon and purchased two generic “T10” bulbs for the R33’s front parking lights.  Immediately, they gave a brighter and whiter light.  And then honestly I forgot about them until I saw the above photo. Given advances in LED technology, both in color and brightness, I decided it was time for an upgrade.

Currently, aftermarket LED parking, lamp, OEM Xenon and OEM high beam H1 bulb means 3 different colors... will it be possible to get all close to the same shade of white, while not diminishing lighting performance?
For me, part of “really paying attention to the details” in parts for my car begins with gaining knowledge through research.  And lots of it.   So I began reading up on automotive lighting and LEDs, with the goal of replacing the parking, low and high beam with the brightest bulbs (legally) possible.  Unfortunately, brightness (measured either by wattage or lumens) is not the main factor most sellers of aftermarket bulbs advertise. There seems to be a fixation on color, commonly measured in Kelvins (K).  I found most aftermarket bulbs are in the 6000K to 8000K range (i.e. bluish white to purplish white) in an attempt to get that “HID” look.  But “whiter” does not necessarily equate to “brighter.”  And for me, for safety related items it’s always function over form, although in the context of modernizing, I DID want a bulb that was whiter than a standard halogen bulb.

So the challenge was to find the brightest AND whitest bulbs possible.  This meant finding reliable sources that give objective figures on characteristics such as brightness.  
X-treme Ultinon series from Philips - the 130 lumens T10 bulbs are extremely hard to find!
I finally settled on these bulbs for the headlights (HID - D2S) and parking lights (LED - T10).  Not only is the brand reputable (with warranty, etc.) but the packages both list the lumens and Kelvin figures and coming from the same manufacturer, my bet was that the Kelvin rating was consistent across both bulbs. 

Unfortunately, it seems that at the present time, no major manufacturer makes an H1 bulb (whether halogen or LED) with a Kelvin rating of 6200K.

So, I took a chance and bought these "H1 bulbs" with a claimed color of 6000K and brightness of 80 Watts off of Yahoo Auctions Japan.  I figured that as OEM was rated as 35W, these should be more than twice as powerful.  There are actually many other designs now with cooling fans and fins, but because I wanted to keep the watertight seal in the back of the headlight housing, I chose to gamble on these which have the same dimensions as equivalent halogen bulbs.  So, my focus at this point was on the BASE of the bulb - this would have repercussions later.

The first step was to gain access to the rear of each of the headlight housings.  Even though this is a car born in simpler times, access was not as easy as it could be, although still simple compared to modern cars (at least my daily anyway). Or so I thought.
Green arrow - twist counterclockwise to remove the parking lamp bulb. And yes, I see all that dirt there too!
I was able to remove the airbox on the front left, which gave me some access to the front left headlight cluster.  I decided to swap out the parking lights first.
The existing LED parking lamp. You can see that only one surface, the yellow face, lights up.
Lit up, the LED casts a bluish white glow. Which turns out to be a weak purple as you can see in the leading photo above.
Here is the new Philips LED - it looks very futuristic and cool!
Lit up. Not only a whiter light, but in all directions. Can't tell from the photo but it was blindingly bright!
Success! See how much brighter the left front bulb is!!
My fingers are small enough that I was able to access the existing LED lamp, but it didn't help when I tried to remove the outer cap to access the headlamps. 

That's because there is this anti-tamper Torx screw at the base of the cap.
But after showing the above photo to some friends in ClubR33, the invite-only Facebook club I am a part of, they educated me as to which Torx wrench I'd need. So, I immediately ordered a special Torx wrench set, after which I was able to swap out the OEM DS2 bulb for the Philips bulb.
Front left bulbs (so right hand side of photo) are not just MUCH whiter than the ones of the right front (left side of photo), but the color appears to be the same for both the low beam and the parking light!
Note, I did consider using an LED to replace the HID bulb, but given the possibility that the light disbursement from an LED bulb might not work effectively with this old school HID and its reflectors, I stuck with HID (for now). I think that was the right decision.  I was pleased with how the light appears to be the same whiteness.

I haven't taken the car out on a dark unlit road yet, but a quick visual check at night, out of the garage lighting up the house across the street, revealed no major difference I could see.

So the last step was to replace the H1 hi-beams with these LEDs.

However, I discovered that the headlight lens assembly only allows a BULB that is shaped EXACTLY like an H1 bulb to pass through. So despite my ensuring that the LED bulbs had an H1 bulb BASE, these bulbs themselves could not be fitted. Back to the drawing board. And no, I'm not going to modify the headlamp housings in any way.

Some online research suggests these bulbs outperform the equivalent top model from Philips in terms of brightness and sharpness of light!
Luckily, a few hours on the internet and more advice from friends in ClubR33 and I seem to have found a solution for the H1 bulb issue - stick with a halogen bulb, just a high performance one which hopefully has not only better light output but a cleaner, whiter appearance as well to match.

The other issue was that, even with my small fingers, I could not access the bulbs directly from the housings. So, I will likely have to remove the headlight housings to do any kind of swap.

In what is a first for me, as I write this I don't know how this will turn out. Early in the new year, I will finish this job and post the results. Stay tuned, and Happy Holidays everyone!

Saturday, December 10, 2016

Inaugural Club R33 Brisbane Member Meet

So yes folks, even on vacation I do R33 GT-R and car related things. Case in point, last week when I vacationed in the Gold Coast, Queensland Australia, I realized it was quite close to Brisbane... and that Club R33 had several members who live in Gold Coast as well as Brisbane.  

So I reached out, and then suddenly a Club R33 GT-R owners meet was on!

First however, I wasn't going to show up in some econobox. Being Australia, I figured I should rent something ADM... something not only made there, but uniquely Aussie. So I ended up getting this:

Holden Commodore SV6!
This is the last Commodore series to be made in Australia, from next year they are all imported!
Dual Exhaust hints at performance
Healthy looking V-6 engine, rear wheel drive!
Unfortunately, I could not believe how cheap the interior was, for a "Premium" level car - fake and poorly done carbon fiber everywhere, pleather... and the entertainment system blanked out and then rebooted itself once...

Anyway, on the appointed day Mark was kind enough to pick me up at the hotel I stayed at in Surfer's Paradise, to lead me to the "Hungry Jack" at "Upper Coomera" wherever that was.

I felt like I was home all of sudden...
One thing I noticed... Wow the 33 sure has PRESENCE on local Aussie roads!
Anyway, we soon arrived and we found the others had already arrived.  Since I had my Nikon DSLR, I immediately started taking photos. I'll let the photos tell the story...
Here, Mark checks his phone to make sure we are at the right spot, given that there was a 944 in the mix
(more on that later).
The mutual admiration has begun...
And in particular, Rhys and his ex-Targa Tasmania car!
Ok, I hate those "replica" wheels. Cast and heavy, unsprung weight places undue stress on suspension components.
But, I understand these are temporary which is good...
Full welded in CAMS 6 point roll cage. Total fighter plane cockpit!
Ok now this is getting interesting. 
Loved this custom catch tank! Nice detail on the vents!
Very clever placement of the oil cooler. Love the custom brackets!
And of course, the all important ClubR33 sticker. Required for all serious BCNR33 owners.

Mark's car. Love the number plate! 
Interior is mostly stock, including that GINORMOUS Series 1 steering wheel.
Now this is cool, I loved it! Apexi N1 dual flow exhaust. Looks almost OEM from afar, but sounds amazing!

Glenn's car. OK, I was impressed. Super clean!
And yes I even checked the BACKSIDE of the Enkei wheels... no brake dust!
Love the color of the engine covers? Me too. Glenn tells me it's a Holden color, "Prussian Steel Grey"!
And yes I noticed the wrinkle paint on the surge tank too. 
I was interested in these stickers. Apparently no longer in stock at Nissan (I checked here in Japan).
Hopefully I can get one of the Club members to scan them and we can reproduce one day...
Clean + Sticker = extra 100hp!
Tox's car. Looks ordinary from here but note, the tracker on the front grill for track days...
Also running those Enkeis! Except none of the OCD clean that Glenn displayed.
This was AMAZING. Anyone know what this is?  I've seen it only in old Nissan Skyline option catalogs.
It's the base Unit for the "Holographic Marker"
Upper left - the unit is called the "Holographic Marker" - the Unit sends out two beams, orange and green - and when viewed in the dash mounted "Combiner" - orange shows where an obstruction is, while green is 10 cm away. Supposed to help in parking...unfortunately Tox doesn't have the Combiner so we couldn't see how it worked.

Timm's 944 was impressive too. His brother Tom's 33 is "undergoing treatment" so they arrived in this.
Have to admit, very nicely done. Most of the paintwork was done when the engine was out of the car.

As Rhys left early, we asked Timm to take this memorial photo. 
As there were a few members who could not make this meet, I hope they will do so at the next one, whether I am there or not.  Actually, it's my hope that people read this and start organizing their own events, so that we start having Club R33 meets all over the world!

How cool would that be? R33 FTW!

Monday, November 14, 2016

Minor Mod: Nissan Sports Horn

Truth be told, this wasn't something essential that had to be replaced. However, for my next Speedhunters post, I am trying to demonstrate to those readers how OCD I am, and so I am going with several engine bay touch-ups which I hope to share with you soon.

One item, though, that I discovered during my engine bay clean-up was the dirty/oxidized condition of the OEM horn, which is actually two horns - one for high pitch and the other for low pitch which together generate the following sound:

So this is what it sounds like, normally.

During my "engine bay refresh" I discovered that the horns, while they still work without issue, looked horrible.
The "lo-tone" one on the right, I sprayed with Rust-o-leum paint as an experiment.
As the above photo shows, I initially wanted to "save" the OEM horns - and while I could have, by for example spraying each with anti-rust Rust-o-leum paint, I decided, why not go with quality aftermarket?

So of course I did some research, and found someone in Japan who was even more OCD than me:

This guy tested over 70 car horns, mainly aftermarket.  As a result, I decided to stick with a Nissan aftermarket part, the "Nissan Sports Horn." The one I found was offered as an accessory for the Z34 Fairlady Z car.

So I ordered and a few days later...
Each one comes wrapped up like this.
As you can see, much larger than OEM. 
And the horn elements are encapsuled in a nautilus shaped black plastic
Installation was NOT plug and play, however.  Not a major issue, but unlike the OEM horn, which is grounded though the bolt connecting to the frame, the Z34 horns require a wire to be run from a lead - here I've shown with the green arrow where I had to run a short wire lead.  In other words, the Z34 has 2 wire clips, one for the positive terminal (which are the same as can be seen below) and then one for ground.  All I did was ground using a wire.  Then, it was a matter of slightly bending the brackets for each horn to ensure they fit in the space behind the grill without rubbing on anything.
Interesting, grounding by way of the bracket and bolt does NOT work with the Z34 horn. At least when I tried.
I should mention that Nissan apparently offers this "Sports Horn" (aka "Euro Horn") for every single car in their line-up, so installing the Sports Horn doesn't give a unique sound to the car. Just a different sound.

So what do people think? Yes, not one of my best posts, but I think when you see the before and after photos of what I've done, you might be impressed.  Patience my friends as I get around to taking Speedhunter quality final photos...

Tuesday, October 11, 2016

A Recent Video Review of the BCNR33!

Well it was bound to happen. Someone saying nice things about me, this blog, and of course the R33 GT-R.  Thanks to Paul and Derek from Let's Drive Japan.

"Full disclosure"-  I know both of them but I really had no idea they would be reviewing the 33 so early in their series (although, I was meaning to suggest they do so soon in their series).

What I found interesting was Derek's immediate analysis, compared to the BNR34. He's right, the BNR34 is "more refined and softer" - as you may recall from reading this blog, that is exactly what Nissan wanted, as they felt that the BCNR33 was fast enough, but it took a skilled driver to get those results.  And having driven a stock BNR34 myself, I was surprised that it felt more like a luxury car (in terms of smoothness of ride and the level of power assist) than a sports car, at least at around town speeds.

I suspect that this car they drove was fairly stock. Perhaps I need to extend them an invite to drive my car?

Meanwhile, well done boys, keep the videos coming!

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Titanium Bolts Engine Cover Dress Up Project (Part 2)

So as I described in yesterday's post, we (ClubR33) had ordered custom titanium bolts for the engine's Rb26 front cam cover, the CAS, and the coil pack cover - some 18 bolts in all.  In "burnt blue," "nitride gold" and "nitride black."

Of course, as I send out the bolts to the ClubR33 members who ordered, I wondered how the bolts would look on my car. So I took advantage of a rare break in the rain and took the follow photos. Enjoy!

Installation Examples:
Burnt blue coil cover bolts
The bolt on right has "ClubR33" laser engraved.
Here is a close up
Nitride Gold
Frontal shot
Better shot to see the coilpack cover bolts
Close up of laser engraving for Nitride Black bolts

Here you can see the OEM bolts (circled in red) vs the black titanium bolts.
So which do you like the best? For some reason, I am drawn to the black ones. Understated, but with purpose. The gold is too flashy for me, but I think of the 3 colors I like them the best (overall finish, and color quality).  The burnt blue is attractive, but honestly the coloring is quite susceptible to scratching (not important under the hood, really), and the coloring is not consistent (actually that is good, no one will have the exact same set) and so for someone with OCD like me, sticking to a solid color may be the way to go. I guess I will just have to experiment...

Weight Savings!
And of course, for those who may be skeptical of the whole exercise, these bolts DO have a practical purpose. Being titanium, they ARE lighter than the steel bolts they replace.

So a 26 gram weight savings for the RB26 cam cover
Since there are 12 bolts in total, we would have 9x3 = 27 grams of weight savings

And 3 of these on the CAS. So 5x3 = 15 grams of weight savings.

So in total, we would have 26 + 27 + 15 = 68 grams of weight savings! LOL. As you can see, no one can deny that they do not have an actual purpose, although I am sure there are more cost effective ways to drop weight from the front of the car!

What do you guys think?