|OEM bulbs on top, LEDs on bottom|
(This photo and next two courtesy of the seller's Yahoo Auction page)
|T10 size for the main gauge bulbs, and T6.5 for the auxiliary bulbs|
-this is for the R32 gauge panel but it's the same for the R33
|Here is a better view of these "flower" LED bulbs - handcrafted mess?|
Obviously, these seemed to be built in a proper factory, had higher wattage and were brighter and so while those "flower" bulbs I had gotten off of Yahoo Auctions were pretty good, I presumed that using higher tech, more powerful LEDs would result in an overall better experience. So I went ahead and ordered a set of 5 bulbs for the main gauge cluster (T10 size).
I then went ahead and installed them, only to end up with this:
|Can you see how some numbers don't look as bright as the others? Yes, I have OCD.|
Incidentally, this photo was taken just last week, not at the time of the original install of the CREE LEDs
|The newer CREE SMD LED on the right (might be the 5050 chip type?)|
The end result:
|Top is OEM, bottom is real carbon overlay by Robson.|
However, as I almost never drive at night, yes it took me almost 3 years to get annoyed enough to decide to fix these problems.
First, I went and reinstalled the flower type LEDs:
|Ahh, much better, all the lighting appears consistent|
|Where I found some light leakage|
Unfortunately, the first experiment, using LEDs in the turn signal indication lights, did not go well:
|LED on the left, and OEM bulb on the right.|
On the other hand, the hi-beam indicator DID come out well:
|Before, with OEM bulb|
|An LED. Much more crisp!|
I also have done the HVAC panel, the defogger switch, and the hazard light switch, (I may not have blogged about this) however because there are no hot spot issues with those, I've left the LEDs in there alone.
So why am I doing this all of sudden? Stay tuned...