Continuing from my last diffuser post - the final step in the BNR34 rear diffuser project was to wire up the LED. So this is how I did it:
The LED unit itself has 3 leads coming out of it, labeled“+”, “-“ and “brake.” The unit was described as having a“flashing brake lamp” a la F1 style, and my 12 volt tester confirmed this was the case.
In any case, the first step was to ensure that, should I have to remove the diffuser in the future, I would be able to disconnect the leads without having to cut any wires. So, I found and ordered 3 lead to 3 lead connectors, which I then soldered onto the ends of the wires coming out of the LED, as well as to 3 wires leading into the body of the car.
I then removed the rear seats, ran the wiring alongside other wiring, zip-tying strategically, and then routed the wire to underneath the center console. I soldered on some connectors (one side the wires from the trunk, the other on the wire leads going to the switch), to allow for complete removal of the center console when necessary, and then ran the connecting wiring through the pre-existing hole that I had drilled for the ATTESA controller that never worked right for me. I made sure I used connectors, so if I ever need to remove the console, I don't have to cut any of these wires.
For the lead coming from the LED unit, I soldered a connector to the ground wire and bolted it to the body. The remaining two wires - one being the positive lead for the running lamps and the other for the brakes - I ended up also soldering leads for connectors, to be mated to the appropriate connector for the wires leading to the main cabin area. So this was the other long connection, going from the LED to the center console.
So, I now had a complete (fairly long) circuit, broken only by a lack of a switch connecting the two leads coming INTO the cabin from the LED unit itself, and the two lead going OUT into the cabin to be wired into the brake light circuit. Initially I had envisioned have one switch handling the ground wire only and serving as a master on/off switch, but then realized that I wanted independent control of the braking and the running lamp circuits, as the flashing red lamp clearly violates Japan’s shaken (road-worthiness) laws.Thus I ended up sending 4 wires into the cabin (2 in, 2 out).
|Here is the harness I made, open leads (4) to connect to the switch, the clip inserts into its mate underneath the center console|
The problem, however, was that I now had the problem of how to affix these switches to the center console. Do I carve out two holes directly? Or do I have some kind of bracket? Where would I locate them? Should they be visible? Or do I install in a hidden spot?
In the end, I finally decided that something that looked or was, OEM would be my best bet.
|I found this on Yahoo Auctions - it is the switch for the OEM Nissan optional foglights, |
as our red R33 friend Miyuki-san demonstrated.
I decided to continue with the stealthy scheme and install inside the console. So this required some cutting of the center console for the switch to fit.
|The center console, as seen from below - I had to use a drill and drill several holes |
as the angle was wrong for the Dremel!
And then use a very sharp razor knife to make nice and clean
|Used the Dremel here!|
|Note how the leads are bent 90 degrees|
|Actually it looks here like it's lifting up a bit, but in reality the switch is flush|
with the floor of the console box
So now all that's left to do is see how the diffuser performs at speed...