R33 vs. R34 GT-Rs, Continued - Objective Differences (and what happened at Nurburgring, anyway?)

As comments to my last post have shown again (because this is a common argument amongst GT-R owners), people tend to like one car model over the other for subjective reasons.  “This one looks better” or “this drives better” or “this one has more road presence,” etc.  And there is also a lot of erroneous information out there too, most notably “the R33 GT-R is heavier than the R34 GT-R.” It’s not, the specifications by Nissan clearly show the R34 was 20-30kg heavier than the R33. (And they would have no reason to lie, they WANTED the R34 to be more compact (hence the shorter wheelbase), because one of the criticisms about the R33 were that, compared to the R32, it was heavier and bigger).

Therefore, I think the only measure of “better” I can agree with is, a comparison on an objective basis – what was changed and why (from a mechanical/engineering standpoint), and the effect that would have on the car (how the improvement was manifested).  So, I have begun hunting for written materials, preferably in Japanese with interviews of the actual technicians, engineers and test drivers who worked on the cars, discussing these changes.  Finally, it would be ideal to have an article discussing the difference, if any, these mechanical changes made in the official lap times of the R33 and R34 at the Nurburging.

Although I’m still looking for other articles, here is one I found which I think does a nice job. From Gold Mook GT Series, "BNR34 最速の証明"(BNR34, Proof of Speed), February 2, 1999, which was published when the R34 GT-R was first introduced. It traces the history of testing at Nurburgring for the three second generation GT-Rs, and talks in general terms about the mechanical differences. And most importantly, its job is to excite and inform the reader about the BNR34!
 The article begins with the history of the GT-R, and discusses of course the R32 GT-R. One of, if not the first Japanese car to be tested at Nur (and this was in spite of the fact that it was for the JDM market only – but this was done to show that its potential was up there with European rivals), Nissan began testing the R32 GT-R components in an S13 Silvia with an elongated bonnet.  In final production  form, the R32 GT-R was able to turn in a best time of 8 minutes, 20 seconds. Nissan test driver Kato (guy in blue sweater, left), recalls “Looking back now 10 years ago, the R32 GT-R could not run properly at Nurburgring. We exerted extreme efforts to get it to run at the Nurburgring.”

So for the R33, the mandate was clear –to go even faster, with higher abilities.  So the R33 came with ET-S PRO (active diff), 17 inch wheels, Brembos, electronic HICAS, etc. – all in all a technically much more advanced car than the R32. Thus equipped, we know that the R33 was able to shave 21 seconds off the time of the R32 – for a record setting (back in 1995) time of 7 minutes, 59 seconds, set by Dirk Schoysman. This result was heavily publicized by Nissan, the first production car to break the 8 minute barrier.

So what happened for the R34? The article does not give a recorded best time, nor does it even mention if the R34 was faster than the R33.  But the interviewees reveal that, faster is not what they necessarily wanted. They also talk about the mechanical changes that were made compared to the R33, and why.

Mr. Yoshikawa, (pictured in black, left), who was in charge of product development and testing, explains that “with the R34, we asked ourselves, how can we improve on the R33?” Mr. Okabe (in yellow, left), explained further, “the R33 is most definitely a fast car. But a GT-R is supposed to be fast. From our perspective, we felt the R33 was a bit abrupt and severe at the limit. So our focus was on improving control at the limit, in order to make it a car that was more enjoyable to drive.”

First discussed was an improvement of body rigidity. This was necessary to begin with, as in initial planning it was decided that the car would have 18 inch wheels, and there would be an increase in torque (note: at the time the article was written, the manufacturers still had to pretend that the maximum horsepower the cars produced was 280 ps – but there was no gentleman’s agreement to limit increases in torque, even though the reality is that every increase in torque also meant an increase in horsepower).

Next up were the aerodynamics. Using data from their racing experience, they first outfitted a front under-panel, which made immediate improvements. Then, of course the rear diffuser, which test driver Kato claimed “made an bigger difference than expected.” The effects were felt starting at 80kms per hour. The benefits were an increase in steering feedback, and strangely, quieter running. At Nur, the body stayed planted to the ground, and not with excessive downforce.

Strangely, these are the only two differences mentioned in this article. The rest of the article talks about testing methods (how they used a Multi-Road Simulator to test body rigidity, for example, as well as, for the first time, an onboard Marelli data logger).  There is mention of course of the shortening of the wheelbase, but not on its effect, performance-wise. No mention of weight differences, nor changes to the suspension geometry, etc.

So what can we conclude so far, based on this article? Yes, there were objective improvements made to the R34 over the R33. But nothing that would make the car “faster” per say. Easier to drive, maybe.  And when you think about it, I would argue that is what Nissan has done with the R35 as well – made it incredibly easy to drive fast.

As someone who enjoys actually driving his car, versus being taken for a ride, these second generation GT-Rs are the way to go. AND, on a SUBJECTIVE basis, the R33 is the best fit for me.

As before, would love to hear everyone's thoughts on this topic.

Here is a historical list of lap times by various cars at Nurburging.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_N%C3%BCrburgring_Nordschleife_lap_times

Note1:  Please check out my revised Spec List page (page tabs, upper-left of this page)

Note2: Apologies also to those readers who were expecting another parts review or tweak on my car. With the horrible weather and a busy schedule, have not had time to do much to my car other than keep it clean. Any spare time at night I am either working, writing for GTROC.org (follow my weekly R35 GT-R build) or trying to catch up on sleep.  This however should change in the near future, with the warmer weekends ahead. I have several projects in the pipeline yet!

An Article Comparing the R33 and R34 GT-Rs...Newer is Not Always Better?

In the Japanese press at the time of the R34 GT-R's launch, the praise was almost universally in favor of the R34 over the R33... in fact so much that to this day, people still think the R34 is a better car.

Mind you, technology-wise, the R34 SHOULD have been a better car. Then again, the chassis and the engine were essentially the same. And yes of course there are things in the car that make R32 and R33 owners envious, most obviously the MFD (multi-function display) and the revised seats.  Then there are the Gundam/Robot/sharply creased looks, which people (I am guessing mostly juveniles, or juveniles at heart? LOL) prefer over the prior two generations.  Not sure if the looks of the R34 have aged as well as the R33 or R32 though.

And I would be the first to admit that body rigidity-wise, a stock r34 will be better than a stock r33.

So it was nice to stumble across this English language article which, for whatever reason, did not have the writer drinking the R34 Kool-Aid.

Enjoy, here it is: Chris Harris on the R34 GT-R

The comments from readers are interesting as well.

I'd also love to hear your comments on this...

R33 GT-R - Cold Climate Region Spec Option

Well with the continuing cold weather... this is still timely...

So how many of you R33 fans knew that, when Nissan sold the R33, they offered a "cold climate region spec" option? (in Japanese, 寒冷地仕様). Actually, not just the R33 GT-R, but all R33s were offered with this option.

Not sure if it was a box you checked on the order sheet, but I HAVE been able to research and find that the option was comprised of at least the following items:

1) A larger standard battery
2) Heated door mirrors
3) Trunk liner

There is not much else to be found, however. The only other interesting tidbit I learned is that all 422 of the 4-door R33 GT-Rs built were "cold climate region spec" models. I could not find any information whether these spec cars had any mechanical differences, however. I was looking for, but could not find information on the typical "cold weather" improvements such as different coolant, better anti-rust protection, larger alternator, de-icing wipers, etc. So if anyone has any info on this, please let me know!

Anyway, assuming it's only the three items I listed above, then modifying your R33 to become a "cold climate region spec" car is not too hard. In my case, I have already installed a huge Optima Yellow Top battery, and so I just had to find the other two.

As for the heated mirrors, a happy accident - a while back when I lived in Tokyo and suffered the curse of mechanical parking, I damaged my left side mirror when backing in (I clipped it... Enough to crack the housing!). No matter, I just went on Yahoo Auctions and picked up something the same color. Wasn't paying too much attention then, but now when I had the doors apart for the sound deadening, I realized that I had gotten one with a 7 pin connector. The standard model is 5 pin, the extra 2 (blue connector) are used for the heating element. Lucky me!



So now, I have to find one for the right side, and THEN figure out how to wire it to the defogger switch, which activates the mirror heating elements.



(both of the above photos courtesy of http://minkara.carview.co.jp/group/r33skyline/bbs/5827926/l10/)

Honestly, while not urgent for me to have, as I live in Yokohama, it would still be cool to have my car fully accessorized this way (never mind that I almost never take my car out in the rain, and of course never when it's snowing). So, if anyone out there has the right side one in KR4 color, let me know! Thanks!

Finally, in keeping with my recent theme of trying to make my car more "comfortable" I found that you can still order the trunk liner and the 16 clips you need, so I did. (Parts number 84966-22U00 for the liner and 01553-04941 for the gray clips- thanks Matt!).

Here is the liner:


Here are the clips:


The trunk lid before (note the sound deadening I put on):


The trunk lid after installing the liner:


Is it just me, or doesn't the trunk lid look WAY better with this liner?

BTW - as I am updating, on an occasional basis, the R33 GT-R Technical page, please check back once in awhile. New entries are in green.

R33 Night on Speedhunters

So a cold March night... but no rain, so ok, that means I can drive out to join the guys at Daikoku... except I get an MMS from Dino and Thomas that Daikoku was closed! So, a 35 minute "commute" to Shibaura PA.

Dino writes that he's been waiting 3 years to shoot my car...But c'mon, do any of you out there really think my car will ever be finished? (I don't!!) Maybe I'll let my blog readers decide when it's finished! LOL.

Over the next few days, I think I will create a page on this blog with my car specs (thanks to Karl for this idea!) and maybe it will give me an idea of how much more I need to do?

I've told Dino I really think the interior needs to be spruced up a bit, but he told me that most people don't care! I don't know...


(due to new Speedhunters format, link below has been revised):
http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/03/shibaura_pa_gt_gt_march_3rd_and_the_r33s/

DIY LED Courtesy Lighting, Part 2

Continuing from my last post -
Part 2 - LED Interior Door Handle Courtesy Lights.

At the same time I was working on the outside door handle courtesy lights, I happened to see a picture of a car with interior courtesy lights, illuminating the inside door handles. Doesn't really make too much sense, actually, since the interior lights up, but heck maybe there is a time when I purposely turn the interior lights off? And would need to find the door handles in the dark?

Ok, there is also the cool factor. This project involved some experimentation but in the end was actually easier than the outside light.

But I first ordered some white and red LEDs:


Then, a close look at the door handle assembly (this has the rods extending out connecting to the door lock, etc. - and is visible once the door card is off) showed that, there is a small gap on top - it is as if a notch has been cut into the top lip of the assembly. Perfect for securing the LED body (tape and silicon sealant) and having just enough space for the LED lighting to show through.



Initially I tried to be clever and drilled a hole in the detachable back cover to the handle, and inserted an LED to shine directly into the interior, but then realized that I could not remove the cover (which is needed to remove the door card) without damaging the LED. So, the decision was made to mount the LED in the place I found as shown above, shining indirectly down, without interfering with removal of the back cover plate. When removed, the door handle looks like this (with door card still in place):



Wiring was simple, it is the same circuit as that of the outside LEDs. As I mentioned in my previous post, however, I wired in a resistor for the "dim and fade out" effect (a luxury car touch? LOL), otherwise the LEDs inside and out were just going to turn on and off, like that.  Luckily, it turns out that there is an easy solution:

Part number 1851, a resistor designed especially for LED lighting, from Amon Kogyo, a supplier of various DIY car parts in Japan.
http://www.amon.co.jp/products2/detail.php?product_code=1851

Turns out, that actually the most difficult part was drilling a hole in the back plate to allow the light to shine through. After some experimentation - in other words drilling a hole too large and having the light spill out past the door handle and onto the arm rest, I used some electrical tape to cover up the excess hole, as you can see in this photo:


I plan to try to find replacements on Yahoo Auctions and drill more accurate holes later, but for now this will do.

Here is how it looks when complete and the door is unlocked. Note my choice of RED LEDs, to complement my red themed interior.


So what do people think of my LED courtesy lights? Cool? Tacky? Interesting? All comments welcome!

PS Still more to come later in the future with LED interior lighting - maybe (have to use those white ones somewhere!) - so stay tuned as I'm still plotting...

DIY LED Courtesy Lighting, Part 1

Can a sports car have luxury touches? Why not? The R33 GT-R has power windows and mirrors, air conditioning and a stereo with power antenna all as standard equipment, so the answer should be YES! Although these items add weight, unless you're driving a Caterham or Lotus, I'm hard pressed to find a modern sports car without these amenities.

Anyway, I've recently begun to think about how I can make my car MORE comfortable and modern, yet still remain a sports car. But what kind of modifications could I do that are relatively easy, don't add too much weight, and don't cost too much?

With the car having been made in the late 1990s, I naturally have looked at the modern cars of today for some inspiration.

Enter LED lighting. LEDs are great, they don't draw too much current, and last longer than regular incandescent bulbs. Which means I can easily wire them into places where it would be a pain to have to change a bulb occasionally.

The problem seems to be, most people go completely overboard with LED lighting - using LED tape strips to line their doors, daylight running lamps, rings for the BMW angel-eye look...Nope, not happening on my car. It has to be subtle, and something that Nissan probably would have installed as standard on an upmarket car.

So here's what I ended up doing:

Part 1 - LED Outside Door Handle Courtesy Lights:
As I had the door cards off when I was adding noise dampening and sound insulation, it occurred to me that it would be a good time to do this DIY install. Installing the LED itself turned out to be pretty easy, with the right parts.

The hardest part of this was figuring out how to wire the LED into a circuit that would turn it off and on at the same time. Luckily, in fooling with the ignition key light surround, I realized that I could simply tap into this circuit, as it is on exactly the same circuit as the one the interior lights are on. Once the doors are shut, a few seconds later when the interior lights dim, so does this bulb. And when the doors are unlocked, this lights up. Perfect.

Electrical source problem solved, I simply ran leads off of the wiring leading to the bulb, wired/soldered in the appropriate resistor in between (for the "fade out" effect), and ran lines from this area towards the doors. At the junction between the body and the doors, I found I could not run the wires alongside the factory harness. Luckily, Nissan provides a separate opening (there is a rubber grommet that blocks out the elements), so I simply pushed the grommet out, ran the wire outside the body this way, and then joined the wire to the factory harness that ran into the door (with judicious use of zip ties, and some silicon sealant for the holes that had to be sealed).

Mounting the flat LED:
It turns out that the door handle is an inverted V shape - one ("A") side being the painted side that you see, the other ("B") side the side that rests against the body when the handle is not used. And, there is about 5mm of space between the body itself and the B side of the handle. Just enough space to mount this:



A 3chip SMD led, with flat side that already comes with 3M adhesive tape. I chose the white color, even though other colors are available - remember, what would Nissan do?

First though, I had to drill a small hole into the B side of the door handle, for the LED illumination to come through.


Then, I drilled a small hole in the door itself near where the hinges of the door handle are, for the LED wires to be inserted into. After that, it was simply a matter of peeling off the sheet on the 3M tape, making sure the mounting surface was clean, and sticking the LED on. For good measure, I used some silicon sealant to weatherproof.

Here is how it looks lit up (note messy sealant job)


And here it is at night, you can seen how it looks better than during the day.


Check back soon for Part 2!

Mini-DIY: Red Illumination Ignition Surround

Turns out, on the R33, there is a small light bulb situated in a clear plastic bracket that surrounds the ignition key. I have been told that the R34 did not have this feature. Too bad (and whatever, they got the ignition immobilizer!)

Anyway, when lit, the clear plastic extends the light all the way around.


I never did like this white color. It seemed so out of place in a car with a red themed interior. (Did Nissan forget to change this for the Series 3?) I briefly toyed with the idea of changing this to one of those red "Ignition Start" buttons, but decided that I would have to figure out a way to lock the steering wheel and provide a lock for the ignition, and so that idea was quickly rejected.

Anyway, all I had to do was pop off the steering column cover (there are about 8 screws on the bottom side), and then the illumination ring simply lifts out.

Here is how it looks, without the cover:


And here is the ring, detached:


And here is the bulb, with the stock white light.


Going with the red theme, I went ahead and replaced this bulb with a red LED.
However for some reason the LED was not as bright as the bulb, so I had to get creative and use some reflective film that my buddy Russ had given me for another project:


The end result was:


One interesting thing I noticed when doing this is, this light turns on when you unlock the doors, and turns off when you lock the doors. This proved useful in another project, which I plan to detail in my next post. Stay tuned!